Saturday, 28 September 2013

Imperial bedrooms

Birthday send . Likely second ascent after Glenn Erik Johannessen put it up some months ago , I can't remember when but I do remember spotting him on it ( between bouts of rain ) and thinking of how it should have been mine just the day before ... If only I hadn't fumbled that last move ... Oh well , at least with GEJ sending it it got a decent name . It's good to finally get it done as I hadn't tried it after Glenn got the FA ... I had worked it pretty solidly though before that as i was hungry for the FA .

It's suggested at V9 but with some gas in the tank it doesn't feel too much harder to me than Zillmerised , but without many V9s under my belt I will have to bow to experience ..

Anyway some fun moves that add to the Zillmerised journey , good fun and very flowy . When Glenn sent it originally he had to start on a lower right hand jug and had to do a little bump to where I started , I was able to reach the better hold and did so as the bump for me was an ugly move that took away from the whole .

Spot by Ben


I had been looking at some of my uncompleted climbs from the past and this one stood out . I guess because I have become quite confidant on Zillmerised now and so the variations aren't as tough as they seemed in the past . Also making that last move on Zillmerised is very daunting for me and it would be nice to breakthrough and truly master it . Whenever I am up there I have a very intense self doubting inner dialog going on and when I do successfully pull the move it makes me feel really really good .

Once again I am dancing with another annoying injury ... Some kind of nerve discomfort in my left elbow , I'm wondering if it has something to do with my rotator cuff ... I did go see a hand and arm doctor who suggested it could have something to do with my ulnar nerve . I was told to take some anti inflammatory drugs and do some stretches ... Also to back off climbing for a while ... Which I have done a bit with this session aside .

I had started some dedicated power training using mainly jugs and slopers and isometrics but I'm wondering if that is what has aggravated my left arm . With this in mind I think I will back off the power stuff a bit and focus on endurance again possibly throw in some hypertrophy too .

Set the cruise control baby .

Be well , play safe .

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