Irish Wristwatch

Repeated , glad to get in on vid .

Sage traverse into imperial bedrooms . Not for the pure of heart as it's basically a link up challange but great moves and it's not an eliminate just a bit multi directional =)

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This was the longest least silly entrance I've come up with to extend Zilmerised ... Possible V6 into V8/9 . This one probably gets the V9 tick now , pretty happy with this and done twice now . It was a bit strange when I sent it the first time . I was with Glenn and it was about 11pm last Wednesday , it was my first attempt at it I think and I had done a fair bit of climbing already . When I latched the razor and casually graben the jug I let out a whinny battle cry but almost in that instant I realised the camera wasn't set up . I immediately felt gutted for missing the send ... Truth be told I actually felt worse than if I hadn't sent it at all ... I need to get on top of this feeling as its not always possible to get footage . I guess though looking at it now repeating it and getting it on camera gave me just as much pleasure as the FA .
I'm pretty sure this is a FA this time as so far most people ( about 3 ) seem to scoff a little at the line . I kind of understand where they're coming from but then it's bouldering ... A pursuit of difficulty ... The quarry is no castle hill with its 1000s of beautiful boulders with just the purest lines bothered with . We need to make do with what is here and I think this line works pretty well , it climbs nicely and there are no holds eliminated ... It's also just joins the Phillip Sage traverse into Glenn's imperial bedrooms . Perhaps I'm being biased ...

Anyway , I've been trying to focus on gaining finger strength as a part of a periodisation plan but I ended up being a bit bummed about having no endurance . So now I am mixing it up a little , adding in one endurance session a week as well as a fair bit of out door climbing . With the outdoor stuff I'm trying to get my boulder on , then work 26/27 routes . The Irish wristwatch project was supposed to take me a bit long to send ... I was hoping to use it as a strength endurance exercise now I'm wondering if I can do it then down climb through Sneakeasy ( the crack on the left ) the get straight back into the travese and up Zilmerised again ! What an epic circuit ! Could be in the injury zone ... I will give it a go anyway ... Before I forget I also got the first move on ghost face ( possibly the hardest boulder in the north island ! It's only had 1 ascent which was suggested at v12 ) it's very crimpy so I won't be spending to much time on it but I will keep trying to make progress .

Other big news for me was it sounds like the "30" I did could be a first ascent !! James Field Mitchell was saying that when Scott Mooney did Zero Gravity he climbed to the ledge meaning he did Zilmerised into wild gravity not wild gravity direct ... This is yet to be confirmed but I'm pretty excited about the prospect of possibly having such an awesome and hard FA at the Quarry !!!

Be well and climb hard .

Hi Coralie .

Pursuit of strength

Finally sent the project after all those early mornings ( getting up at 5 am to beat traffic and sun ) yes I am a bit sad but also happy too .

I'm not sure if the low traverse into Zillmerised had been done or not ... Doesn't really matter . Its a quality line worth doing for the sake of doing it but I will try find out somehow ...

So the spray down .

The Sage traverse reversed into Zillmerised .

The climb starts with a nice pull on with good feet . The first move then puts you a bit out of balance , you can fight it or try go with the flow ... ( I found it easier in the end to fight it ) youre then forced into a nice shouldery position on opposing holds , a quick foot swap on the only good footer brings you to the first crux . The match . A bit of right arm lock will give you enough time to get into the ( uncomfortable ) match , it's not the best place to hang out so a quick shift of weight right ( on a good foot ) will get you to the arête via a sloper bump . From here I found you can press your knee into the arête to gain some stability while you free up your left hand to bring it to the undercling . This is basically the low static start position of Zillmerised . I found a toe hook saved me some energy while freeing up my left hand here too , to get it to the arête via a pointy mono crimp . You're then on Zillmerised a bit fatigued and if youre me pretty nervous . Some more balancey and powerful moves gets you to the high pinch pocket looking at the throw to the razor ... I punted this move about 10 times before finally getting it to stick ... Hello jug .

Not sure as usual how hard the line feels but likely V9 or really hard V8
Other climbs are Lego SDS pretty easy V5
And the Grunta face only V6 ( a quality eliminate ) and it has slopers !

Hope you enjoy more quarry .

Some footage and spotting by Ben - Thanks

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Trying to build strength over the next few weeks / month so there will be lots of bouldering and hard routes to be done . Should be fun ! Then the work will begin with power endurance - then route endurance ... Not so fun but rewarding if last time is anything to go by . I was going to take a more focused strategy-training but I think I will keep it a bit casual for the first few periods ... Give my body time to adjust , which I think is the right path , it's so tempting just to go hard though but Im pretty sure that will just get me injured .

On the path .

Be well , stay strong .