Saturday, 5 October 2013
Pursuit of strength
Finally sent the project after all those early mornings ( getting up at 5 am to beat traffic and sun ) yes I am a bit sad but also happy too .
I'm not sure if the low traverse into Zillmerised had been done or not ... Doesn't really matter . Its a quality line worth doing for the sake of doing it but I will try find out somehow ...
So the spray down .
The Sage traverse reversed into Zillmerised .
The climb starts with a nice pull on with good feet . The first move then puts you a bit out of balance , you can fight it or try go with the flow ... ( I found it easier in the end to fight it ) youre then forced into a nice shouldery position on opposing holds , a quick foot swap on the only good footer brings you to the first crux . The match . A bit of right arm lock will give you enough time to get into the ( uncomfortable ) match , it's not the best place to hang out so a quick shift of weight right ( on a good foot ) will get you to the arête via a sloper bump . From here I found you can press your knee into the arête to gain some stability while you free up your left hand to bring it to the undercling . This is basically the low static start position of Zillmerised . I found a toe hook saved me some energy while freeing up my left hand here too , to get it to the arête via a pointy mono crimp . You're then on Zillmerised a bit fatigued and if youre me pretty nervous . Some more balancey and powerful moves gets you to the high pinch pocket looking at the throw to the razor ... I punted this move about 10 times before finally getting it to stick ... Hello jug .
Not sure as usual how hard the line feels but likely V9 or really hard V8
Other climbs are Lego SDS pretty easy V5
And the Grunta face only V6 ( a quality eliminate ) and it has slopers !
Hope you enjoy more quarry .
Some footage and spotting by Ben - Thanks
Trying to build strength over the next few weeks / month so there will be lots of bouldering and hard routes to be done . Should be fun ! Then the work will begin with power endurance - then route endurance ... Not so fun but rewarding if last time is anything to go by . I was going to take a more focused strategy-training but I think I will keep it a bit casual for the first few periods ... Give my body time to adjust , which I think is the right path , it's so tempting just to go hard though but Im pretty sure that will just get me injured .
On the path .
Be well , stay strong .