Friday, 6 September 2013

Froggatt bouldering day

Yesterday was a pleasant solo trip to Froggatt and I had the whole crag to myself until about 4pm ( excluding Farmers and Cows ) . The drive doesn't seem as long now that I recognise the way , I find myself a lot of the time travelling on auto pilot . I guess it's just a stones throw in comparison to some of the driving I did on my Castle Hill trip .

Here's some climbing footage from the trip . My grading has been a little jumbled lately , not really sticking to personal grades or topo grades but a mix of the two . I will try to stick to one view in the future once I make up my mind what the best approach is ...

Went to Froggatt yesterday and did some exploration . I finally got around to all the different areas . I didn't attempt anything I would consider hard except Power On V7 - feels pretty hard for V7 in my opinion and Mossy Menopause V7 unfortunately the top three pockets were wet on MM ... It's a shame because its an appealing line with nice looking pockets and I think it will suit me . There's also a sit start suggested at V8 so that is also cool , something I can spend some time on .

Double take V6 - I've been wanting to get some decent footage of this . I really like this one and its good for warm up laps , just tape your left middle finger ...

And Another One V6 - In the guide I think but more upper 4 or 5 for me , its always hard to say after a flash attempt because I'm generally trying pretty hard no matter what .

And Another One Arete V5 - In the guide maybe there's a different line if it's dryer ... It was pretty mossy and damp .

ADO V5 ( V4/6 ) in the older guide this is V4 and the newer V6 ... It's likely in between the way I did it , I didn't use the arĂȘte as mention in the guide just pockets ...

Kiwi Kiwi Attack V6 - a bit gutted as I flashed the crux dyno and was hanging on to a good hold when half of it snapped off in my hand ... I had thought it looked a bit shit too but figured if it was still there it must be ok . Sent second go but not without it biting a bit out of my left index finger . Damn birds .

A couple more boulders .

Just do it V5 - a bit of a cramped start for me - nothing different here - but otherwise fun . Nice textured edges that got me to crimp . Flash/onsight

Salsa V5 - I took some time using the guide to pick this line and I could just make out some coloured chalk maybe from a past comp ... This is what I interpreted as Salsa anyway ... Figured I still had plenty in the tank so may as well reverse the moves . Flash/onsight

Lunatic To Luna Leopard traverse V6 - nice techy climbing a bit crimpy though ... I decided to try go for the reverse too but hadn't checked the moves before attempting it ... 3rd go total , took me two tries to figure right to left .

There is also three V7's I have been looking at / trying . I will keep my iPad mini rolling and try to capture the ascents . On that note all the footage I'm recording on the iPad and using iMovie to edit , it's a very easy system to work which is nice , it's just a shame the vid quality isn't a bit better . Also once I get over my excitement of climbing at a new area I will take some extra time to try get more thoughtful shots . At the moment I tend to just balance the iPad on different objects or lean it up against things ... I have missed capturing lots of climbing from this approach as it doesn't take much for the wind to knock it over , or a branch to move ect ...

The up and down climbing in the second movie seems a bit long winded ... I wasn't to sure how to edit it or even if it was worth adding to the movies . I'm not even too sure what I am trying to achieve by publishing all this , if I'm archiving , sharing beta , or just practising narcissism ... What I do know is I love watching climbing moves , and there's not enough of them out there ! Especially local ones and ones around middle of the road grades achievable by average climbers so I guess in that sense I am filling a void that I have perceived . It will be interesting if anyone takes any notice or shows any interest ... If you do see these or read this leave me a comment , I'd appreciate some feedback , ideas , tips , spay , links ... Anything retaliated to climbing is generally appreciated .

I'll finish with this , a video of the grand Wizard that is Dave Graham , he has an awesome perspective and is fully submerged in his climbing . I think it's awesome ! It's an interesting view the whole inside the box idea , I'm going to try this out and visualise this when i climb , see where it takes me ...


Be well .

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