Monday, 21 October 2013

Irish Wristwatch

Repeated , glad to get in on vid .

Sage traverse into imperial bedrooms . Not for the pure of heart as it's basically a link up challange but great moves and it's not an eliminate just a bit multi directional =)


This was the longest least silly entrance I've come up with to extend Zilmerised ... Possible V6 into V8/9 . This one probably gets the V9 tick now , pretty happy with this and done twice now . It was a bit strange when I sent it the first time . I was with Glenn and it was about 11pm last Wednesday , it was my first attempt at it I think and I had done a fair bit of climbing already . When I latched the razor and casually graben the jug I let out a whinny battle cry but almost in that instant I realised the camera wasn't set up . I immediately felt gutted for missing the send ... Truth be told I actually felt worse than if I hadn't sent it at all ... I need to get on top of this feeling as its not always possible to get footage . I guess though looking at it now repeating it and getting it on camera gave me just as much pleasure as the FA .
I'm pretty sure this is a FA this time as so far most people ( about 3 ) seem to scoff a little at the line . I kind of understand where they're coming from but then it's bouldering ... A pursuit of difficulty ... The quarry is no castle hill with its 1000s of beautiful boulders with just the purest lines bothered with . We need to make do with what is here and I think this line works pretty well , it climbs nicely and there are no holds eliminated ... It's also just joins the Phillip Sage traverse into Glenn's imperial bedrooms . Perhaps I'm being biased ...

Anyway , I've been trying to focus on gaining finger strength as a part of a periodisation plan but I ended up being a bit bummed about having no endurance . So now I am mixing it up a little , adding in one endurance session a week as well as a fair bit of out door climbing . With the outdoor stuff I'm trying to get my boulder on , then work 26/27 routes . The Irish wristwatch project was supposed to take me a bit long to send ... I was hoping to use it as a strength endurance exercise now I'm wondering if I can do it then down climb through Sneakeasy ( the crack on the left ) the get straight back into the travese and up Zilmerised again ! What an epic circuit ! Could be in the injury zone ... I will give it a go anyway ... Before I forget I also got the first move on ghost face ( possibly the hardest boulder in the north island ! It's only had 1 ascent which was suggested at v12 ) it's very crimpy so I won't be spending to much time on it but I will keep trying to make progress .

Other big news for me was it sounds like the "30" I did could be a first ascent !! James Field Mitchell was saying that when Scott Mooney did Zero Gravity he climbed to the ledge meaning he did Zilmerised into wild gravity not wild gravity direct ... This is yet to be confirmed but I'm pretty excited about the prospect of possibly having such an awesome and hard FA at the Quarry !!!

Be well and climb hard .

Hi Coralie .

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