Thursday, 12 December 2013

New horizons

A bit of time has passed since I did the Grand Traverse . I had a nice period of relaxation post send which allowed me to try some routes within my onsight/flash grade . I have put off trying routes a lot of times in the past due to not wanting to fail for various reasons ... Be it fear of falling , fear of failure , ridicul , fear of not succeeding ... The list goes on and it's all pretty ridiculous but it haunts me a little when I don't keep it in check .

With these new efforts and some more endurance training I have been putting some more leads in the bag . Here's a few caught on vid .

Quite cool , there's definitely some fun to be had at Kewa . 24 flash thanks to good beta from Daniel Krippner .

More mangaokewa goodness . Tried to find an alternative sequence to avoid the crimps but gave up in the end as it was just too hard and the crimps weren't to bad in the end anyway , finger is finally getting better . Sent first lead attempt .

Great place and climb , one of the easier ones there at 28/7c+. We got pretty wet on the walk in and it was gusty and cold so not a very comfortable day . I doged my way up as a warm up then sent next go - second session on it ( Tried it about 5 times last time and spent lots of time thinking about it ) . Skin felt like it was on fire when I got back on the ground and got some feeling back . Made me feel a bit sick . The top was wet too but the holds and kneebar were good enough to pull through .

Thanks for the belay Glenn and Krippner for braving the wind for the footage .


I've also been doing lots of weekends away with Daniel Krippner which has been cool . It's nice to climb with someone who is motivated again , it's helped me get out to new crags and and try new climbs . It's always helpful too climbing with someone who knows an area or a particular climb which is something I've never had . So thanks DK for the friendship and inspiration .

I found that white falls might suit me hopefully . So far it seems to have friendly sized holds which being a bigger climber is a godsend ! Although it's super steep so I'm not likely going to onsight anything but if I can dial down the sequences and climb quickly and efficiently then hopefully I can get some ticks in the 8th grade , which will be awesome . Heres hoping

And last but not least - well maybe - here's a project turning into Poptometry .

It's been a dyno project for a while now , pretty glad to bag it . Not sure on the grade as it is essentially one move and I don't really have anything to compare it to except maybe Continuity at Quantum . The holds are very tiny , I might measure them actually ... I'll suggest V8 , Glenn originally thought 9 or 10 but that doesn't seem right for my height at least , but who knows ... Have a go !

Video Sarah

This one is definitely more of an eliminate than the other problems put up my Glenn or myself at the short side , i could try explain the parameters as it is kind of face only to the jug with no hand holds coming off the crack ect but really the problem is a dyno off these tiny crimpers and there's really nothing else you could use anyway ... Also i must mention that this line was Glenn Erics vision which i managed to snake ...

Until next time , be good , stay strong , have fun .


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